Simple Wooden Cabinet Drawer

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I've been wanting to add a slide out drawer under the kitchen sink, but then I realized I couldn't find anything in the morning under my vanity.  So for demonstration purposes (and a practice run for drawers), I decided to try this out on the bathroom sink first.

You will need to measure the opening of the door area.  If the opening is 8", you will want to make the drawer about an inch smaller.  Usually, the rule is to allow 1/2" on each side for the slider.

Build your box the depth of the drawer glide and the width of the opening, minus an inch.  I used a 1x4 with a lauan base.  Nothing being stored in this drawer will be heavy.  However, under the kitchen sink I'll use 1/2" plywood to hold bottles of cleaner, trash bags, etc. which are generally pretty heavy.

So, I had to add a cleat to each side of the drawer since there is an overhang between the door opening and the side of the cabinet.  Screw the cleat into the bottom of the cabinet.

Here is the basic box I built.
I can find all my stuff now.  Most of it I had forgotten I had because I could never see it.  I would like to think this is why I have so many hair products and now because I'm a sucker for marketing.

Now I think I need to add those little dividers like I did yesterday here.

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Simple Wooden Drawer Divider

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In five minutes, I cut down a 1x4 board to make this great organization piece for my daughter's bathroom drawer.


I measured the width of the drawer and cut 2 pieces to length.  Then I measured the length of the drawer and divided by 3 to estimate the section pieces, cutting four pieces.  Always estimate a bit long, so you can cut down to slide into place.

I assembled two "T" shaped sections with a width cut and a divided length cut (see below).  I used the kreg screws, but nails will work just as well.

Here are the two "T" pieces assembled and the other two divider pieces.
These fit perfectly in place.
I left the two front pieces unattached so she can adjust if she needs to change it.

Now I want to add this to all the drawers.
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Simple Wooden Bookshelf

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Here is a super easy and solid bookcase.  I'm going to distress it and put it in the breakfast room to hold the cookbooks and some display items

It is actually really simple, no plans needed.
Cut an 8' board into 4 equal pieces.  This one is a 2x10.
Then grab two 2x4 boards.  I mitered 4 boards 36" long and 4 boards 9.25" long. 
I used the kreg to screw together the boards to the sides, but those handy little "L" brackets will work beautifully.  As far as holding the side pieces, I used the kreg, but since it was a mitered cut, I only used one kreg screw at each corner of the side frame.  I then added two 3" screws (countersunk) at the end of each miter to hold in place.  As you can see on the top I added a couple of strips to cover the screws and add a bit of depth to the top shelf.

It would probably look even better with some wheels.


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Simple Wooden Storage Footstool

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We have a small little footstool by the chairs in our family room that my mother-in-law brought over for the kids to use, but the grown-ups (me) kind of got used to using it. So, I had to build an extra plush one for me.

Cut List:

1x12 - 4 pieces cut 16"
2x2 - 4 pieces cut 11"

16"x14.5" Lauan or plywood for the bottom inside box

17.5"x16" MDF of plywood for the top (you can make yours larger to hang over a bit)

4 small wheel or feet


Attach the 1x12 to the 2x2 on each end, keeping them flush on the top end.  Build two of these.

Attach the side walls to the first side, then add the other side.

Turn the box upside down and add the bottom of the box.


The yellow spots are where the 2x2s are located.  Attach your feet or wheels here.  I added wheels to mine and I love it!

I added a couple of cross support pieces to hold the top in place, but later found out the fabric does most of the work.  You can add a second piece going the other direction if you are worried about any movement.
Here is the rough box.  I added a layer of burlap around mine.
I used a couple of old throw pillows on the top and added a neutral duck cloth. 
You can also use the trick of the mattress pad like I did on the bar stools.

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Simple Tiered Trays

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Cut List:

A Frame (x2)
1x2 - 12" (end cut on a 15 degree angle) - Bottom shelf support
1x2 - 10" (end cut on a 15 degree angle) - Middle shelf support
1x2 - 8" (end cut on a 15 degree angle) - Top shelf support
1x2 - 18" Back Frame
1x2 - 18 7/8" Front Frame (both ends cut with 15 degree angle)

Connectors to join side frames (x5)
1x2 - 10 5/8 or up to 10 3/4 depending on how much wiggle room you want

12x12 box shelf
12x12 lauan
1x2    4 - 12" miter cut

10x12 box shelf
10x12 lauan
1x2    2 - 10" miter cut
1x2    2 - 12" miter cut

8x12 box shelf
8x12 lauan
1x2    2 - 8" miter cut
1x2    2 - 12" miter cut


connect two frames



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Simple Wooden Chalkboard

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Another project for my daughter's new room is a small piece of "art" for her to design with a chalkboard.  I built her a chalkboard where we painted the frame with chalkboard paint too so she can decorate it and change it as much as she wants.

Sorry we couldn't demonstate the chalk yet, we added a second coat.


To build the frame, I threw together two boards about 15" long for the side pieces and another two boards about 16" long for the bottoms.  I used a kreg to screw the boards together.  If you don't have one, they sell flat "L" brackets to screw the boards together to do the exact same thing.

I cut a lauan board approximately 16" x 22" to fit on the back.  With carpet tacks, I nailed the lauan to the frame.


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Simple Wooden Caddy

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I needed to make a caddy for my daughter's colored pencils, scissors and all her little accessories for her art crafts I seem to always be picking up on every flat surface in the house.  I grabbed two mason jars, some scrap boards (all weird sizes) and a dowel.

I used a 1x8 cut into two 11" boards for the sides, cutting off the corners and drilling a shallow hole for the dowel.  I used two boards approximately 8" long for the sides (different heights) and another 8" board for the middle divider.  Cut the dowel about 9" long.  Dry fit the box first to make sure the dowel will stay in place and isn't too long or too short.  The bottom I just traced onto the plywood once I had the box assembled.

Here is the front and the back board.


Used a paddle bit the size of the dowel and drilled out about 1/2" of the side boards which I cut off the edges.  You could round them with a jig saw, but I didn't have the time. 
The angle on the cuts = 30 degrees.

I attached the front and the back pieces to the end pieces and added a bit of glue to the ends of the dowel before placing the box together.  Nailing with 1 1/4" finish nails.

I added a 1/2" piece of plywood at the bottom.  You could always use regular wood (I just used some scraps for this whole project).


The middle piece is in there as a spacer (not nailed) so I can change the set up in the future if it needs to be.



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