Master Bathroom Remodel - Updated Window Trim

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If you have seen any of my previous room makeover posts, you will know how much I can't stand tiny trim and popcorn ceilings.  This is one of the last two rooms with a popcorn ceiling (hall bath still has it too)...but this post is about the window trim.  I still haven't decided what to do with this bathroom ceiling, which is one of the reasons I'm going pretty slow.

For years, I've been switching out the tiny MDF trim the builder installed when the house was built.  Here is the before photo of the bathroom window trim.  The trim just seems to get lost.

So, I set out to do the standard trim I've been adding to every room in the house - chunky 1x4 (sides and bottom) with 1x8 (header) and 1x2 (sill and topper).

This is quite simply the easiest way I could think to do this back when I started all of the doors and windows and I like it.  You could probably search Pinterest to find more detailed options.

Add the sides, cut to the length of the opening.  Add the sill and the bottom.  Finally, add the header and the topper (which you may need to put together before installing depending on the clearance above the header for nail gun).

The finished product...

 Ta da!

I'll be adding a new post with the beginning steps of the mirror trim over the sinks later this week.

Happy building,


On a side note, Google is holding the website hostage.  Long story, but I signed up for with my old email.  I'm guessing they sent the billing to that email, of which I no longer have access.  If anyone of you ever tried to contact a human at Google, you will understand my frustration.

With that in mind, I decided it is time for a change.  A way to get back into blogging about the DIY projects.  I'm designing a new website.  I've started working on it this week, but it will take me awhile to get it up and running.  My goal is to incorporate some video tutorials, inspiration boards, and maybe some video room tours.

....until then, you can still find the posts here on the

Stay tuned!

Master Bath Remodel Update - Classic Chrome Hardware

Pin It There is one thing very difficult when remodeling the bathroom.  Choosing a finish for all of the metals.  

Did I want it to be a new trendy finish?

Martha Stewart Living 3 in. (76mm) Bedford Brass Awning Cup Pull
Brass Hardware

For starters, I'm not really over the brass trends of the 90's.  Even if it is beautiful and they call it "Gold" now, it is still similar to the brass hardware I'm still wanting to change out on my door handles throughout the house.  See?  If you are slow enough on your home improvement projects, eventually, it's on trend again.  Voting "NO" on the gold.

A popular finish available at the home improvement stores that I could match everything?

Atlas Homewares 3 in. Bronte Collection Brushed Nickel Pull
Brushed Nickel Hardware

Brushed pewter, nickel, silver hardware.  Again, it's pretty and I would be able to find everything to match.  However, some of the manufacturers have different ideas of "brushed" textures and some of the nickels I saw were different colors.  

Something eclectic where you use a combination of finishes?

Mixed Metals (faucets & hardware)

Link to source

And my brain (OCD/Anal Retentive/Very Annoying Brain) wouldn't even allow me to entertain the idea of mixing Oil Rubbed Bronze with Gold and Silver.  I think that kind of decorating is reserved for the folks who don't have the need to have the volume on the tv/radio set on an even number, who can get $9.99 of gas and who can have open window open all the way and one only halfway.  Not for me.

Long story short, I selected...

I found these on  They are solid and really complement the square rectangle theme that seems to be happening with the door fronts and sinks.

Here are a few more pictures of the handles.

 Check back soon for more Master Bathroom Updates!!


Master Bath Remodel Update - Sinks and Faucets

Pin It Quick Update on Master Bathroom Remodel:

The base cabinets are installed.  The countertop is installed, sanded and sealed.

I had purchased some cute square vessel sinks and a waterfall faucet, but sadly, they just didn't work.

Today, I stopped at Lowe's and Home Depot on the way home from work to get different sinks and faucets.  I am in love!!!

Here is the information on what I bought and where I bought it:

Drop-In Sink - Lowe's - Kohler $149

Faucet - Home Depot - Glacier Bay $68

Stay tuned for more updates on the bathroom remodel.


Master Bathroom Renovation

Pin It Once the deck was finished, I didn't waste much time.  I decided it was time to work on the master bathroom.  I thought it would be one of those projects where I wanted to design and build the cabinets so it would be exactly what I wanted.  However, after building the deck last month, I decided I didn't want to spend a month in the garage building cabinets.  I started researching cabinets (kitchen and vanity) at Home Depot, Lowe's and IKEA.  IKEA had so many options as far as design and storage, I thought that was probably the best decision for what I needed.  I designed a new vanity using IKEA's kitchen designer website.  Designing the vanity was a bit of a challenge since there were several issues.  

First, there was a wall separating the linen closet and the vanity.  I don't know about you, but my linen closet has about half of the space wasted.  There is about 2' at the top you can't reach because of the header on the linen closet door.  There is about 16"-18" of wasted space in the front where there are no shelves.  I wanted to remove the wall and incorporate a tall IKEA cabinet to utilize as a linen closet.  However, I scratched that idea once I measured the inside width of the linen closet.  I should be able to remove the front of the closet (a couple of 2x4's in the wall, the door and the header) and slide in a cabinet.  This will keep the wall and still give me the storage.

Here are a few of the planning stage ideas:

Drafting Sketch Up Plan
IKEA Kitchen Designer

Second issue was the fact the IKEA cabinets had full fronts and full doors.  The side of the vanity by the door has trim that sticks out .75".  If I were to build the vanity all the way to the wall, I'd never be able to open the doors/drawers fully.  Instead of an 18" middle drawer cabinet, I switched to a 15" drawer cabinet.  Yes, I will lose a bit of storage, but I won't have to worry about bowed walls and door trim during the install.

Lastly, vanity cabinets are typically shorter and have less depth than kitchen cabinets.  Having taller cabinets is part of the reason for the remodel, so that wasn't the issue.  The issue was making sure the depth of the kitchen cabinets didn't make the room feel too small or create any accessibility issues down the road when we go to sell.

On a side note, this was my first time purchasing kitchen cabinets at IKEA.  If you do intend to buy cabinets there, make sure you stop at the kitchen department and have them enter all of the items in the computer there.  I didn't realize they didn't have the items in the warehouse.  They have to create the order for you, you pay, then they pull the items from the back.  It takes about an hour for them to pull the items, so plan to have lunch or do more shopping while you wait.

Sadly, IKEA was out of the door fronts for the two side cabinets at the time I purchased these.  I will hopefully have those in the next week or two as I work on the backsplash, floor, baseboards and eventually, the linen cabinet.

Here are a few photos of the last two days:

Didn't use the IKEA feet or baseboards.  I'm using 2x4 base with my own trim.
 Had to chisel out the old ceramic flooring and thick concrete base.  Kind of wish I decided to keep those floors now, but onward...
The builders cut out the drywall for last vanity top to fit flush to wall.  I'll be adding filler today for the backsplash.
Each of those middle drawers have two separate drawers for a total of six.  The bottom of the sink cabinets have two drawers each.  The bigger bottles and larger items can be stored under the sinks.

Including a few photos of the new shower doors.  One of the photos has the original vanity (in the background).

Check back soon for more progress on the master bathroom remodel.


DIY Deck Design & Build

Pin It For the past three or four years, we have had a major exterior project at the house each summer.  Last year, I swore would be our last project with the massive retaining wall on the south side of the house.  Here are some of the photos from Instagram (since I haven't been blogging).

Fast forward to this spring...I was pricing new deck boards for the small upper 10 x 10 deck.  The original cedar decking was sixteen years old and was not in good shape.  Over the years, I'd painted, filled the boards with an epoxy filler to try to remedy the knots/holes, sanded and there was nothing left to do to try to bring new life to the old boards.  Then, I added new railings to the plan, because the old ones would look horrible with the new boards.

You know how that goes, right?

Anyway, after sitting under the deck (on the lower deck) and staring up at the underside of the deck that was to receive the cosmetic face life with new boards and railings, I became worried.  I didn't know what "Minimum Code" requirements were at the time, but I was doubting the existing deck would even meet those.  The existing deck didn't have adequate lag screws in the ledger board (size or number), the railing posts were all toe-nailed to the joists (which explained why they wiggled), the joists were not blocked (which could explain why it felt like walking on a trampoline)...maybe it wasn't just the deck boards that made the deck terrifying, maybe it was the entire deck.

I dusted off Google Sketch Up and started designing a new deck.  Then, I went to the national building codes website, my city building code website and watched tons of youtube videos on deck construction.  Did this make me an expert?  Nope.  Did it give me the basic knowledge to build my own deck?  Yes!

After drafting the deck so I had a visual of it, I had a pretty good game plan for building a new deck.  Since I knew I couldn't do this project without help, I had to make sure my husband would be willing to do this with me.  He resisted replacing the deck at first, but after I asked him to walk on the existing deck and he refused, I knew he would help.  

The hard decision was how the handrails should look.  The old existing deck was up pretty high and the railings blocked the view.  We live in a subdivision, but we don't have any houses directly behind ours (good for view, bad for amount of wind we get).  When we sat on the deck, all we could see were railings.  I wanted to be able to see the yard and the trees, not spindles.

I found the cable wire line systems looked great and would allow the view, but the small dogs may be able to find their way through the cables.  Back to the drawing board...There are some nice black metal spindles at Home Depot and Lowes, but when you add it all up they are pretty expensive and still blocked some of the forward...I found a sturdy cattle panel fencing (utility fencing) that would act like the cable system, but would have less than a 4" grid opening.  Ding Ding Ding!!!
Cattle Panel/Utility Panel

Nothing was in our HOA rules about using metal on the deck (fencing may be a different story).  But, would the city allow the cattle panel?  During my research, I read that some cities wouldn't allow cable lines or cattle panel due to the horizontal (climbing) bars for small children.  I decided to stick with my decision on the cattle panel and had a back up plan to use 1/2" conduit bars if they wouldn't approve the panels.  The city approved it.  Yay!

Here is the beginning with the old deck and demo:  (My husband is great at demo, so I let him run that show with minor help from me - lots of sledgehammer and reciprocating saw action)

Original Deck
Original Joists

Original Corner Posts
Original Ledger Board

We removed everything down to the two posts.  The posts looked to be in great shape to use on new deck, but we waited until we removed everything and cut them down to the height we needed before making the final call.  When we notched them out for the new cross beam to sit on, we found the posts to be in perfect condition.  

Here are some photos from the build:

New Joists and Center Beam
New Deck Ledger Board
New Deck Framing

New Cedar Tone Pressure Treated Decking

New Railing with Posts on Deck

New Railings with Posts on Deck

Here is the finished project:
New Cattle Panel Railing
Cattle Panel Railing

Utility Fence Railing

Finished Deck
Underneath New Deck

And from the deck:
New Deck View

New Deck

As I said, I'm not an expert.  If I was, it wouldn't have taken three weekends.  The final deck is 12 x 10 (2ft cantilevered over posts) and cost about $1500 (includes running electrical to deck, all hardware, decking and utility panel) using cedar stained pressure treated wood from Home Depot.

Three days after the fabric canopy was put on the deck (meaning I didn't have time to bolt it to the deck), a storm blew through the region.  RIP Three Day Old Canopy, you will be missed.  Did I mention the wind tunnel syndrome behind the house?  Yep.  In my defense, it hadn't rained in weeks.  I thought I had time.  Anyway, bought another pergola type shade structure this week, with a canopy that retracts.  We will see how long that one holds against these winds.

Happy building!